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Basic Aeronautics
#71
Further to my thread , yesterday.... the ruling of starting your model in the pit area and then transporting the aircraft to the flight with the motor running, worries me. the person only has to trip over and could fall on top of the prop. A solution would be to have a starting fixture at the flight line for restarting , after the model has been run up in the pit area. Also, i`ve been informed by a club member, that a 60 size motor and above, should 'not' be started by hand, due to safety concerns. An electric starter or a "chicken stick" (americanism} which can be any thing, like a plastic rod etc. so that the fingers do not contact the prop. Brian C
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#72
There is plans to bury a concrete pad with vertical poles somewhere adjacent to the pilot's box, on both sides. This is because models (glow powered mostly) need a run-up before attempting take-off. If they are a little rich, lots of smoke and oil are blown onto the grass otherwise. Other times a model is landed to re-tune and if this is done on the grass, a dead strip can be found the following week.
Walking with a running model does have its risks, but many MAAA members cannot get down on the ground easily to re-start a model. Where does it become an acceptable risk I wonder. I have never heard of an injury from carrying a running model, apart from an electric one (accidental touch of the throttle stick). Some clubs allow taxiing between flight-line and and a point in front of the pits, but don't allow taxiing towards the pits. This is to cater for models that are too heavy or awkward to carry. The Safe Flying Code (MOP056 13) call for the use of a restraint where a taxiing model may be a danger to other people. This is a simple strap around the tail that the pilot holds onto while the model powers itself away from or towards the pits.
Our slope makes it risky taxiing large models from the flight line because they roll so easily. There isn't anything we can do about this.

MOP014 General Rules and Guidelines for the Operation of Model Aircraft 6.14 recommends that engines above 2.5cc (15 size) are prohibited from being hand started.
6.17 recommends that aircraft being started are restrained mechanically or by someone other than the person starting it. I was talking with Greg about this yesterday.
Signs attached to the starting benches may appear in the near future to remind members about safety while starting and tuning models...

Much of the MAAA's MOP's are recommendations, not rules. They leave it up to us to make them rules.
 [Image: SaitoFS82b.jpg]Everyone knows that REAL ENGINES are used by REAL men. Eklectic motors are best left for use in toothbrushes and other unnecessary things.
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#73
Thank you Marcel for your prompt reply.....Point 1, I was suggesting that one of the existing starting fixtures ,be moved to the flight line for starting/ restarting, so that the pilot is standing not kneeling and that the model is restrained. As for carrying the model while running, as we age ones balance is questionable, particularly if the ground is not level {me for one} and as the bulk of our members are seniors , I believe that the point is valid one. Correct tuning would be done there and then and the start fixture would retain the exhaust residue, so that it could be cleaned up easily. Waiting time should not be an issue if the model is reliable, if not, it would be sorted out in the pit area.
Point 2. Many smaller engines have a plain bearing crankshaft (ie; non ball raced] sometimes with excessive end float. With the use of electric starters the crank can move backwards allowing the big end journal to scuff the end cover, creating an alloy sludge. Not good.
Thank you for quoting the relevant code numbers....it allows the reader to make his own judgement on a given subject. Brian C
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#74
Not sure if anyone has mentioned transmitter cut off switches on electric models ... definitely a necessity to have them activated .
MAKING MODELS IS MEDICINE FOR THE MIND  Smile
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#75
Big Grin 
Yes Kennyglide, cut off switches for electric & ic motors. program your transmitter to cut power if you have a brown out or if there is a problem.
Angel
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#76
We might have to raise some $s to build another starting bench or two. If we ever get into (or have visit us) quarter-scale models, we'll need something on the ground. Having a 30cc engine burst into life with blades spinning less than a foot from your face is daunting enough, let alone 55cc and above. In my experience, smaller engines are more likely to bite my fingers flick-starting them than the larger ones. 15 size and smaller engines are simply nasty to try to start!

I always program in a cut-off switch, but usually set a fail-safe to pull the throttle to idle (I'm presuming that everyone flies models with real engines!). Shutting the engine down might help a radio problem if interference is occurring, but be aware that if it is a brown-out from a dying battery or failing connection of sorts, having a fail-safe pull the throttle to cut the engine (glow only, but includes petrol if you can't kill its ignition) will likely make it worse as usually it must pull the throttle to its stop and this causes extra current drain on the system (stalling the servo slightly on analog, considerably more with digital). Some engines can cut the throttle without hitting its adjustable stop, but not all.

If I'm desperate enough and must fly something ecklectic, the failsafe cuts the throttle to off. Some ESC's and motors cause enough interference to reduce signal quality.
(Let's ban ecklectic power!)
 [Image: SaitoFS82b.jpg]Everyone knows that REAL ENGINES are used by REAL men. Eklectic motors are best left for use in toothbrushes and other unnecessary things.
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#77
I `ve one thing to say........how about banning those noisy, stinking, mess making, unreliable, expensive, limited use, high maintenance excuse for a power plant.... Definately of no use in powering a tooth brush, unless , of course, the dentures are of the removable kind. Then a gleaming finish should be expected. Brian C.
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#78
Still not taking the bait...
 [Image: SaitoFS82b.jpg]Everyone knows that REAL ENGINES are used by REAL men. Eklectic motors are best left for use in toothbrushes and other unnecessary things.
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#79
You`ve been smelling exhaust fumes for too long, it is called Metholomotosis. Dangerous stuff that!!
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#80
Anyone out there?
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